I had a good cry for about 5 minutes when I got back to my hotel room last night after Swamiji dropped me off and then it was over. I think that’s a record. I then packed most of my things. I needed to shop for some things before I left town and pick up my laundry. My luggage was full when I arrived and I had already purchased a thick book since then. I wasn’t quite sure if everything was going to fit. One if my anticipated purchases was a coat.
Now, I know I won’t need a coat down South, but I have a suspicion I’m going to take a quick trip north up into the Himalayas before I head to Amritapuri in December. It’s just a hunch at this point, but the coat is unique and I know I will want it in Seattle.
I had my last mala of Gayatri at sunrise this morning on Ganga Ma. When the sun rises through the notch in the ridge, it shatters into a million pieces of multicoloured light. I remembered the first time I saw and felt it and burst into tears. All the people from the first River of Sound tour were there with me in consciousness. Again, the tears subsided quickly.
Once I finished on the ghat, I changed clothes and rinsed off and headed out. I had my last breakfast at Amrita’s right on the ghat and a nice chat with the owner. He’s such a dear. Then I hopped the ferry across the river. I hadn’t even been across the river other than to go to Aarti one night and an Internet café when the power went out on the west side. I did the loop from Ram Jhula to Laxman Jhula, taking the “low road” for the first time. It gave me a good opportunity to take pix of Swamiji’s old kutir site and his new one. I like the new site a lot better, it’s much more private.
My list consisted of comparison shopping for my coat, buying a new crystal mala from the guy who was so patient about explaining rudrakshas to Jennifer and me and looking for another pair of pants with zippered pockets like the green ones I bought during my first stay there. The coat was in a very inconvenient location and I didn’t want to hike there. I got my pants and mala and a really good deal on a calendar of the style I love where the days of the week go top to bottom instead of left to right. I saw one shop that had similar coats, but not close enough, so off I went hiking up to the place and bought the coat. It’s technically outside the city limits, so they can serve eggs and meat up there. I had an omelette there a few mornings ago and felt so naughty!
Checkout time was noon and I was picking my laundry up at 12:05. Good thing people in India aren’t really uptight about things like time. I got the purchases and laundry packed, somehow. Miraculously, it all fit. It’s a lot heavier though, sheesh!
I checked my duffle and headed off to the Internet café with my laptop, looking to make that last purchase of a shirt that was illusive. I got it, too! Didn’t make any progress with purchasing my next tickets, but that is a good thing, as will be discovered later.
My plans were to take the bus to Haridwar for Rs. 30 and stay at an ashram that is dedicated to the Goddess Gayatri and the Gayatri mantra. It’s huge, thousands of people stay and I spoke to a nice man on the phone that said all I had to do was show up and ask for the Foreign Cell. There would be a brief interview and then I would be allowed to stay for 2 days free of charge, including meals.
That, my friends, is the subject of a separate post, so I’ll leave off here by saying I left the Internet café after an hour because a most annoying American woman was in there trying to arrange a private driver to take her to Delhi and Jaipur and was not letting the travel agent finish a sentence. She was going on and ON about Indian taxi drivers being cheats and how she’s a great photographer and she works so hard and she was so oblivious to anyone other than herself. I couldn’t even think with all the racket, so I packed it up and left. Some people are just so abrasive.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
6,000 Feet – 8 November 2008
Alas, we didn't get to see Swami Gyananandaji today, whom I lovingly think of as the Santa Claus saint. Swami Bhodichitanandaji had to work on his door to the kutir this morning and we got a late start. I had a great day with Swami Devabhaktanandaji and Swami Bhodichitanandaji, winding up beautiful mountain roads and exploring deserted forest roads and taking pictures of huge banyan trees and spiders. We even turned the siren and lights on once, just for fun.
We stopped by Swami Gyanananda's vacant kutir in the mountains and I got some good pix, one of me and Swamiji and some of a most gorgeous sunset. I was five minutes late for curfew last night and almost late again tonight. I spent most of the drive lying down on the bed in the back of the ambulance, it was very comfortable! Well, except when the roads got so bad they nearly bounced me off or the stretch that constantly switched back and forth and I had to hang on and all my weight was on my arms. It was a workout! I have to say, Swamiji's driving has improved immensely in the time I've been here. He drove through Dehradun like a native driver, and that’s saying a lot!
Mussoorie is a beautiful town at 6,000 feet. I got a picture of the elevation sign. I’ve never been that high up. I really wanted to see the Himalayas, but the weather and time didn’t allow. We got there right at sunset. It’s got great energy, even at night. The views are breathtaking.
Swami Devabhaktanandaji was very shy around me at first. I met him last year and briefly said Hi to him on the way to Swamiji’s kutir 4 or 5 days ago. He warmed up later and started telling me jokes and giving me travel destination advice and calling me Devibhakaji. He's so sweet and I love the playfulness between him and Swamiji. They've been friends for around 15 years.
I’ve been so blessed by the time I’ve spent with Swamiji. Ginaji tells me that I’m a blessing to him, as well. I do get that he enjoys my company and I think it gives him a chance to relate in a different way than he can with Indians. I got all teary tonight when I said goodbye, as I'm leaving tomorrow. I’m going to miss him and his ambulance.
We stopped by Swami Gyanananda's vacant kutir in the mountains and I got some good pix, one of me and Swamiji and some of a most gorgeous sunset. I was five minutes late for curfew last night and almost late again tonight. I spent most of the drive lying down on the bed in the back of the ambulance, it was very comfortable! Well, except when the roads got so bad they nearly bounced me off or the stretch that constantly switched back and forth and I had to hang on and all my weight was on my arms. It was a workout! I have to say, Swamiji's driving has improved immensely in the time I've been here. He drove through Dehradun like a native driver, and that’s saying a lot!
Mussoorie is a beautiful town at 6,000 feet. I got a picture of the elevation sign. I’ve never been that high up. I really wanted to see the Himalayas, but the weather and time didn’t allow. We got there right at sunset. It’s got great energy, even at night. The views are breathtaking.
Swami Devabhaktanandaji was very shy around me at first. I met him last year and briefly said Hi to him on the way to Swamiji’s kutir 4 or 5 days ago. He warmed up later and started telling me jokes and giving me travel destination advice and calling me Devibhakaji. He's so sweet and I love the playfulness between him and Swamiji. They've been friends for around 15 years.
I’ve been so blessed by the time I’ve spent with Swamiji. Ginaji tells me that I’m a blessing to him, as well. I do get that he enjoys my company and I think it gives him a chance to relate in a different way than he can with Indians. I got all teary tonight when I said goodbye, as I'm leaving tomorrow. I’m going to miss him and his ambulance.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Bliss! 11-11-08
I love it here. I mean, I LOVE it here. I've just been here one afternoon and I think I could stay forever! This makes the bliss I felt with Ganga Ma pale in comparison. Oy. *giggle*
It makes the last few hellish days totally worth it!
Tomorrow is Arunachala Full Moon Pradakshina, circumambulating the mountain. It's 14km or around 8 miles and traditionally done barefoot. Thousands of people do it on the full moon and it usually takes around 4 hours. I don't know if I'm doing it barefoot or not.
Things I love here, at the moment, in no particular order:
I'm sure there's more, but that's enough for now. I only slept catnaps in the airport last night, the flight today, and in the taxi coming here, so I'm going to get offline and get a full night's sleep. I'm glad I got here a day earlier than I originally planned, tomorrow night is the walk. I thought it would be the 13th, but no.
Thinking of you all often. Thanks for reading! Please consider commenting to let me know you're there.
Love and Blessings!
It makes the last few hellish days totally worth it!
Tomorrow is Arunachala Full Moon Pradakshina, circumambulating the mountain. It's 14km or around 8 miles and traditionally done barefoot. Thousands of people do it on the full moon and it usually takes around 4 hours. I don't know if I'm doing it barefoot or not.
Things I love here, at the moment, in no particular order:
- Bhagwan Sri Ramana Maharshi's energy!!!
- The daughter of the Internet cafe owners, who looks to be 2 or 3 years old is adorable and flirts with me often.I'm staying right beside the Internet cafe, a chai stall and Sri Ramanasramam.
- There seem to be an equal amount of Westerners and Indians here. A large percentage of the Westerners seem to live here, they drive scooters and bikes and look like they ensconced. I've only heard 2 or 3 American accents, the rest sound European.
- There's wi fi everywhere!
- I get to stay at Sri Ramanasramam for three days starting 25 November, if I choose to.
- People have these white chalk-looking mandalas or yantras outside every entrance to their homes and shops.
- The side lanes are wide and quiet!
I'm sure there's more, but that's enough for now. I only slept catnaps in the airport last night, the flight today, and in the taxi coming here, so I'm going to get offline and get a full night's sleep. I'm glad I got here a day earlier than I originally planned, tomorrow night is the walk. I thought it would be the 13th, but no.
Thinking of you all often. Thanks for reading! Please consider commenting to let me know you're there.
Love and Blessings!
Sri Ramanashram - 11/11/08
Hello Beloveds.
My heart is so full today. I arrived in Thiruvannamalai at Sri Ramanashram after two and a half sometimes harrowing days where I was not connected with the Internet or with definitive lodging. I wrote two long posts in the interim, but I'm undecided about posting them as is, editing them or just not posting them at all. They feel so very irrelevant. The future will tell, I guess.
Now on to what I really want to post about. The Love here is amazing! I burst into tears when I entered the grounds. It's the very same Divine Love that radiates from Ginaji. It's Him - Ramana Maharshi, through Poonjaji, through Ginaji, through me! It's the "through me" that brings forth the tears. Again. Finally, I get it.
That's all I've got for now. Love you ALL!
My heart is so full today. I arrived in Thiruvannamalai at Sri Ramanashram after two and a half sometimes harrowing days where I was not connected with the Internet or with definitive lodging. I wrote two long posts in the interim, but I'm undecided about posting them as is, editing them or just not posting them at all. They feel so very irrelevant. The future will tell, I guess.
Now on to what I really want to post about. The Love here is amazing! I burst into tears when I entered the grounds. It's the very same Divine Love that radiates from Ginaji. It's Him - Ramana Maharshi, through Poonjaji, through Ginaji, through me! It's the "through me" that brings forth the tears. Again. Finally, I get it.
That's all I've got for now. Love you ALL!
Friday, November 7, 2008
Family Matters – 8 November 2008
My sister is visiting my parents from Florida and she sent me a picture she took today of a framed picture of me with my shaved head that she took them, sitting on their organ. She said she was going to take them the picture of me in front of the Taj Mahal because she thought it was the best picture I’ve ever taken. She said I looked at peace. I was really touched that she recognized it. I still can’t see any changes in myself, but others can. I have a whole post in my head about that and events that occurred in Varanasi, but it’s not quite cooked yet.
Anyway, I finally told my parents I shaved my head a few days ago and asked my sister to show them the photo gallery while she was there with her laptop. I had no idea she would frame the one of my shaved head! I didn’t want to traumatize them, I just wanted to poke them a little. The organ is prime real estate, I don’t think I’ve ever been on the organ before, so they must not be too traumatized. I should phone them to make sure.
I had a good yoga practice this morning that felt really good. It has occurred to me repeatedly this trip and I still maintain that yoga was invented here in India because one would be crippled after a week or two without it. The environment is harsh and demanding and my muscles and joints appreciate stretching out very much. I still haven’t started a regular practice of pranayama yet, but I did a wee bit today. It’s progress.
After my wild and zany evening with Swamiji, I phoned my mother to see how she was. She is shocked and baffled. She just doesn’t understand why I’d shave my head, no matter how many times and how many ways I explain it to her. She even sounded hurt. I don’t get her attachment to my hair. Actually, I realize it’s more than that to her. In her reality, things have MEANING and the meaning of me shaving my head is one that is very upsetting to her. I’m sure she’ll adjust to it, eventually. Or not. That’s her journey to take.
Anyway, I finally told my parents I shaved my head a few days ago and asked my sister to show them the photo gallery while she was there with her laptop. I had no idea she would frame the one of my shaved head! I didn’t want to traumatize them, I just wanted to poke them a little. The organ is prime real estate, I don’t think I’ve ever been on the organ before, so they must not be too traumatized. I should phone them to make sure.
I had a good yoga practice this morning that felt really good. It has occurred to me repeatedly this trip and I still maintain that yoga was invented here in India because one would be crippled after a week or two without it. The environment is harsh and demanding and my muscles and joints appreciate stretching out very much. I still haven’t started a regular practice of pranayama yet, but I did a wee bit today. It’s progress.
After my wild and zany evening with Swamiji, I phoned my mother to see how she was. She is shocked and baffled. She just doesn’t understand why I’d shave my head, no matter how many times and how many ways I explain it to her. She even sounded hurt. I don’t get her attachment to my hair. Actually, I realize it’s more than that to her. In her reality, things have MEANING and the meaning of me shaving my head is one that is very upsetting to her. I’m sure she’ll adjust to it, eventually. Or not. That’s her journey to take.
Tea Time By Ganga Ma – 7 November 2008
I just finished the most delicious cup of masala chai, brewed over an open wood fire, in the dark at Swamiji’s kutir. I’m sitting on a grass mat in the dark, 25 feet up on a ledge overlooking the rushing rapids typing away on my laptop. The cool breeze is contrasting nicely with the warmth from the dying fire. The sound of the conch shell from the temple across the river echoed wistfully and now I’m hearing the clanging of the bells. I shot a video of the tea being brewed on the fire, hopefully I can upload it and link to it.
Swamiji and Ramu, his labourer, are inside the kutir working on attaching the door. The carpenter was supposed to have it ready at 2pm, but when we showed up at 5, he hadn’t even started installing the hardware. Much hilarity ensued. Well, it was hilarious from my perspective. Swamiji lost his temper for a bit and then assisted with the installation. We finally brought it back here at 6:30. On the way to the carpenter’’ shop, we had the best dal makhani and lassi I’ve ever had. We were deep in locals territory.
Ramu was supposed to leave at 5:30, but was patiently waiting for us out on the road when we arrived. He carried the door on his head over the rocky beach, along a narrow wall, in the sand, down steep, uneven stairs and up a short incline that I had to take on all fours. In the dark. There was one passage where I couldn’t walk the wall, it was too narrow. I froze. I managed to backtrack and find another way. The trail descended sharply toward the end, just before it reached the wide wall to walk on. The last thing I heard from Swamiji, who was ahead, lighting the way for Ramu, was Don’t go in the Ganga! Always the helpful one, Swamiji. Sheesh. I butt-slid down that section and still had to do some fancy footwork to transition to the wall. I’m very lucky I didn’t go in the Ganga! I think this is the hairiest thing I’ve done to date. I can’t imagine carrying a full sized exterior door on my head while doing it!
I kept bursting out in a full faced smile while navigating the terrain to get here in the dark with only a wee pen light Swamiji loaned me. I love this! I don’t know if it’s living on the edge and triumphing in the face of huge odds that does it for me or what, but I feel the most intense joy. It’s difficult and it’s primitive; my muscles and joints are very sore, but I feel so alive! I was wearing my fully loaded backpack with laptop and two books on my back and my fully loaded waist pack around my waist. My center of gravity was noticeably off. I felt even more unstable toward the end of the trek and when I took my backpack off, I noticed that the computer compartment had come unzipped somehow and the laptop was hanging out, only held in by it’s compartment strap. Thank goodness I latched it in, a lot of times I forget. I felt quickly for the power cord and transformer and thankfully there were still in there. Whew, that was lucky. I’m going to lock the two zipper pulls together next time. My laptop could have landed in the Ganga!
The crickets and other night insects are singing loudly. I love that about this part of India. Seattle nights are silent. Virginia nights are cacophonous, just like this. I miss the symphony. Sitting here beside the embers and hearing the water and insects, it reminds me a lot of weekends at Lake Chesdin when I was growing up. My siblings hated going there, but I loved it. If I’m right about living in India in past lives, then no wonder I adored it there. It feels just like this. It’s getting cold now and the embers are nearly dead. I think it’s time for me to start trekking back to my ashram. My curfew is in 90 minutes and I want to take it slow. If this gets posted, you’ll know I made it!
Swamiji and Ramu, his labourer, are inside the kutir working on attaching the door. The carpenter was supposed to have it ready at 2pm, but when we showed up at 5, he hadn’t even started installing the hardware. Much hilarity ensued. Well, it was hilarious from my perspective. Swamiji lost his temper for a bit and then assisted with the installation. We finally brought it back here at 6:30. On the way to the carpenter’’ shop, we had the best dal makhani and lassi I’ve ever had. We were deep in locals territory.
Ramu was supposed to leave at 5:30, but was patiently waiting for us out on the road when we arrived. He carried the door on his head over the rocky beach, along a narrow wall, in the sand, down steep, uneven stairs and up a short incline that I had to take on all fours. In the dark. There was one passage where I couldn’t walk the wall, it was too narrow. I froze. I managed to backtrack and find another way. The trail descended sharply toward the end, just before it reached the wide wall to walk on. The last thing I heard from Swamiji, who was ahead, lighting the way for Ramu, was Don’t go in the Ganga! Always the helpful one, Swamiji. Sheesh. I butt-slid down that section and still had to do some fancy footwork to transition to the wall. I’m very lucky I didn’t go in the Ganga! I think this is the hairiest thing I’ve done to date. I can’t imagine carrying a full sized exterior door on my head while doing it!
I kept bursting out in a full faced smile while navigating the terrain to get here in the dark with only a wee pen light Swamiji loaned me. I love this! I don’t know if it’s living on the edge and triumphing in the face of huge odds that does it for me or what, but I feel the most intense joy. It’s difficult and it’s primitive; my muscles and joints are very sore, but I feel so alive! I was wearing my fully loaded backpack with laptop and two books on my back and my fully loaded waist pack around my waist. My center of gravity was noticeably off. I felt even more unstable toward the end of the trek and when I took my backpack off, I noticed that the computer compartment had come unzipped somehow and the laptop was hanging out, only held in by it’s compartment strap. Thank goodness I latched it in, a lot of times I forget. I felt quickly for the power cord and transformer and thankfully there were still in there. Whew, that was lucky. I’m going to lock the two zipper pulls together next time. My laptop could have landed in the Ganga!
The crickets and other night insects are singing loudly. I love that about this part of India. Seattle nights are silent. Virginia nights are cacophonous, just like this. I miss the symphony. Sitting here beside the embers and hearing the water and insects, it reminds me a lot of weekends at Lake Chesdin when I was growing up. My siblings hated going there, but I loved it. If I’m right about living in India in past lives, then no wonder I adored it there. It feels just like this. It’s getting cold now and the embers are nearly dead. I think it’s time for me to start trekking back to my ashram. My curfew is in 90 minutes and I want to take it slow. If this gets posted, you’ll know I made it!
Travel arrangements in India, not quick and easy.
I've spent around 4 hours on the Internet trying to map out the rest of my journey. So far the only thing I've accomplished is buying my plane ticket from Kerala back to Delhi to fly home on 23 December. That's a good thing, I need that :)
The Indian Rail website leaves a lot to be desired. Yikes, it's slow and cumbersome, but it eventually gives the needed. Airfares are crazy! The ticket price is quoted as 1,990 Rupees plus taxes. They don't tell you the taxes include a fuel charge and are 3,500 Rupees! Totally insane. I just don't feel like burning up time on a train right now though.
Dehradun and Mussoorie is tomorrow, then I'm off to an ashram in Haridwar. I'll be able to see the Himalayas in Mussoorie. The transportation and timing is just not working out for me to go to Dharamsala. Well, at this point anyway. Since it's already cold there, I doubt I'll be going later in the trip either. One never knows though...
Nice yoga practice this morning. Didn't make it to Swamiji's kutir today, the Internet ate my day. Saw a nice coat in a shop after breakfast, but I don't know where I'd put it in my luggage. I'd need it if I go north, but it doesn't look that way. I still may buy it and send it home. It rocks and I think I'll really regret it, if I don't buy it.
That's it for now. Time's up and Swamiji is picking me up to go into the market area. That's a wild place!
The Indian Rail website leaves a lot to be desired. Yikes, it's slow and cumbersome, but it eventually gives the needed. Airfares are crazy! The ticket price is quoted as 1,990 Rupees plus taxes. They don't tell you the taxes include a fuel charge and are 3,500 Rupees! Totally insane. I just don't feel like burning up time on a train right now though.
Dehradun and Mussoorie is tomorrow, then I'm off to an ashram in Haridwar. I'll be able to see the Himalayas in Mussoorie. The transportation and timing is just not working out for me to go to Dharamsala. Well, at this point anyway. Since it's already cold there, I doubt I'll be going later in the trip either. One never knows though...
Nice yoga practice this morning. Didn't make it to Swamiji's kutir today, the Internet ate my day. Saw a nice coat in a shop after breakfast, but I don't know where I'd put it in my luggage. I'd need it if I go north, but it doesn't look that way. I still may buy it and send it home. It rocks and I think I'll really regret it, if I don't buy it.
That's it for now. Time's up and Swamiji is picking me up to go into the market area. That's a wild place!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)